It's that time of year again where the freezing temperatures are upon us. The UK is currently experiencing sub-zero temperatures of down to -20 degrees centigrade.  This warning goes out to all keepers who hibernate their tortoises in a shed or outbuilding. If your tortoise becomes exposed to freezing temperatures in hibernation, it will most likely kill or severely injury them.  It doesn't matter how much you try to increase the amount of insulation, it will not make any difference. It will just slow down the time it takes for your tortoise to suffer frost damage.

Outdoor sheds, greenhouses and other outbuildings like the one see on the left may not offer enough protection if temperatures drop below zero degrees. Historically, most frost damaged tortoises are hibernated in the above locations. The accommodation you see to the left is where we normally home our tortoises throughout the year but as you can see the snow and freezing temperatures have ruled out any chance of an outdoor hibernation.

Thermostatically controlled shed and greenhouse heaters are good for keeping away mild frosts but do quickly become inadequate when temperatures plummet below zero. Another drawback is, should there be a power outage, you loose all protection. As such, our advice would be not to rely on heaters during such weather conditions. As soon as sub zero temperatures are predicted, it is highly recommended that you move your tortoise to a safer location indoors. Moving your tortoise will save it's life, so please act NOW. Don't worry about moving a hibernating tortoise as this poses no danger. It is perfectly safe to do so. It's even more dangerous to leave your tortoise in a place where it will freeze to death. There is a simple piece of advice to remember when sub-zero conditions are predicted:

Move it! Or You'll Lose it!

If you are hibernating your tortoise using the box method, you will need to move the tortoise in its box to a location that is not only going to stay above sub zero temperatures, but also where it will not exceed 8-10 degrees. Some people use a spare bedroom and shut off the radiator thermostat in order to achieve less than 10 degrees. A frost-free conservatory that doesn't get used during the winter months is another good location that many keepers use. Make sure you use digital thermometers to regularly monitor internal and external temperatures. Please do not try to second guess the temperature. See below an example of a low cost thermometer that you can purchase from eBay or most online reptile stores. Also see pictured an Oregon weather station that we use.

If you opt to use the ever more popular fridge method, make sure you use a larder type fridge that does not incorporate an ice box. As fridges are sealed units, you will have to open the door on a daily basis to allow for air exchange. When doing so, you should also take the opportunity to check on your tortoise and the temperatures. At the very least, you should use 3 digital thermometers, one for the top, middle and bottom of the fridge. Ideally, the thermometer probe should be placed inside the box with your tortoise for a more accurate reading. Please note that some fridges are warmer at the top. You can put your tortoise into a Tupperware box filled with either a sand / soil mix and / or shredded paper. If you do use the lid, make sure you drill some air holes in it . The ideal temperature to aim for is 5 degrees. We have had good success using this method.

A tortoise must never be exposed to freezing temperatures or frost. Frost damage can cause blindness, disorientation, frostbite and most likely death. See below a list of hibernation tips that will help to save your tortoise.

Critical Hibernation Tips:

• Give your tortoise plenty of baths before it goes into hibernation as it is crucial they are well hydrated.

• Never attempt to feed your tortoise during it's wind down period, especially immediately prior to going down.

• Weigh your tortoise weekly and record all weights taken. A tortoise will generally not lose much more than 1% of its body weight per month and should not lose more than 10% of its bodyweight in total. Weigh the tortoise on the day it goes into hibernation, take note of this and the date, and calculate what a 10% weight loss would be.

• Check your tortoises mouth for any obstructions prior to hibernation (i.e. food debris, grasses) as rotten vegetation is the main cause of mouth infection during hibernation.

• Check the box carefully for any signs of faeces or urination. Passing faeces, especially in the first weeks of hibernation is not a particular worry; however, if the tortoise has urinated, there is a significant danger that it could dehydrate, so should be woken up immediately.

• Never try to re-hibernate a tortoise that has been woken up from hibernation.

• Check reflexes – the tortoise will move gently and retract his limbs if touched.

• Check nose – this should be dry and free from discharge.

• Check body for any swellings or puffiness.

• Do not hibernate your tortoise in a location that is inhabited by rats. Your tortoise's hibernation location needs to be safe from predators.

• Never leave your tortoise in hibernation any later than the end of March.

• When you bring your tortoise out of hibernation, place the box (with the tortoise still in it) into a heated room for a short while until your tortoise begins to stir and come round. It is then vital that your tortoise is offered the provision of a heat lamp. Take your tortoise out of its box and place underneath a basking lamp to warm up. After about an hour, offer your tortoise a nice long bath. This helps to flush out the toxins that have built up in their kidneys during hibernation.